When it comes to finding the best bespoke tailors in the world, the options can seem endless. How do you know who to trust? How do you know who will create the perfect suit for you?
In this comprehensive guide, we will discuss all of the best bespoke tailoring options available to you. We’ll talk about what makes a great tailor, and we’ll provide a list of some of our favorite shops around the globe.
So whether you’re looking for a bespoke suit for your next special occasion or you just want to find a reputable tailor to help with your everyday wardrobe, this guide is for you!
The Origins of Bespoke Tailoring
The word ‘bespoken’ was first used in 1607 to describe an item that was commissioned or ‘ordered to be made’.
Bespoke tailoring is a process that has been around for centuries, and there’s a reason why it remains so popular today. When you work with a bespoke tailor, you can create a new suit that is truly unique to you. You get to choose the fabric, the style, the fit, and even the details. This level of customization means that you’ll never have to worry about your personal style being lost in the crowd again.
The difference between made-to-measure and bespoke lies in the amount of handwork that is required for each style. Forthe best bespoke suits, a new pattern is made each time and at least 20 measurement points are taken. Multiple fittings are necessary for the initial measurements and suit alterations – generally at least three.
A bespoke garment takes longer to make than made to measure because it requires a higher level of handwork. The bespoke process is is usually between 8-10 weeks. The end result will be a suit tailored specifically to your measurements and requirements, that will accentuate your best body features.
Custom or made-to-measure suits (MTM) require less work since they are made using a preexisting pattern and pre-cut pieces of fabric that are tailored to your measurements. An even more economical version is made-to-order (MTO), where garments are made according to preset models and sizes yet offer some limited additional options such as buttons or linings.
How to Choose a Bespoke Tailor
When it comes to finding the best bespoke tailors in the world, there are a few things you need to take into account. The first is location – do you want to find a tailor who is local to you, or are you willing to travel for the perfect fit?
The second consideration is price – how much are you willing to spend on a bespoke suit?
Another thing to consider when looking for bespoke tailors is what type of suit do you need? There are many different styles, and each one has its own particular purpose. For example, if you’re going on a business trip, you’ll want a sleek and sophisticated designer suit. If you’re going to a wedding or black-tie event, then perhaps more formal attire is in order. The same can be said for any other occasion where bespoke tailoring might come into play – from casual wear to evening wear and everything in between.
Next up, think about the fabrics you want to work with. Different materials will create different results. A lightweight cotton might be perfect for summer days, while a woolen fabric can keep you warm in winter weather. There are also many different colors and patterns to choose from, so take your time and find something that really speaks to you.
Once you’ve settled on the style and fabric of your suit, it’s time to think about the details. This is where you can really make your suit stand out from the rest. Do you want a bold pattern or a subtle texture? How about some added embellishments like buttons, pockets, or lapels? The sky’s the limit, so get creative and have some fun with it.
And finally, you need to think about the tailor’s experience and reputation. When you’re looking for bespoke tailors, it’s important to do your research.
Not all shops are created equal, and not all tailors are experts in every type of suit. Make sure to read reviews from past clients and see examples of their work before making a decision about these expensive mens suits.
The Best Bespoke Tailors Worldwide
The best bespoke tailors in the world can be found in London, Florence, New York City, Naples, and Chicago. Here are a few of our favorites, in no particular order.
1. Antonio Liverano
Established by Luigi and Antonio Liverano in the 1960s in Florence, this Italian tailor is still going strong today. Antonio Liverano likes to say that “There is the centimeter, the millimeter, and then the human eye.” This philosophy reflects his skill at making custom suits entirely by hand. Each one takes over 70 hours to complete and includes three fittings. Antonio could well be the best suit tailor in the world.
2. Gieves & Hawkes
Gieves and Hawkes was founded by James Watson Gieve and Thomas Hawkes, originally as two separate London tailor shops. In 1974, Gieves Ltd acquired Hawkes and renamed it Gieves & Hawkes. Based at prestigious address 1 Savile Row in London, England, they have been creating custom-made suits for hundreds of years between them. Some of their customers old and new include King George III, Prince William for his engagement announcement, Sir Winston Churchill, Ian Fleming, Admiral Lord Nelson, and many more.
If you want an elegant bespoke suit with a touch of traditional British style, Gieves & Hawkes is the shop for you. They offer bespoke fittings at 1 Savile Row, as well as occasional fittings by Head Cutter, Davide Taub in Los Angeles and New York.
This French company was founded by Jules Dormeuil in 1842. Bespoke clients can choose from over 2,500 fabrics. Known as the Platinum service, this option is available in Dormeuil boutiques in France at 51, rue François 1er in Paris, and 48, avenue Charles de Gaulle in Neuilly-sur-Seine. Dormeuil bespoke suits are handmade in Italy.
Customize all aspects of your suit, such as the number of pockets and their shape, the color of your elbow patches, lining and under collar fabric, the shape of the shoulders, and the width and style of your lapels. You can also choose the type of embroidery and top stiching, as well as the buttonhole styling.
4. Sartoria Raffaniello
Despite the Italian name, Sartoria Raffaniello is based in Osaka, Japan. Company founder Noriyuki Higashi learnt the art of making bespoke and made to measure suits in Naples, Italy. Favoring the Neapolitan cut, his suits have a relaxed look and minimal padding. The bespoke service is available at trunk shows, and offers two options – with or without sewing machine. The Senza Macchina option is entirely sewn by hand.
5. Alfred Dunhill
This London based company was established in 1893. Popular with celebrities such as Jamie Dornan and Andrew Garfield, Alfred Dunhill offers ready-to-wear clothes, made to measure and bespoke garments. Alfred Dunhill Bespoke is available at their flagship stores including London, Dubai, New York, Osaka, Paris, Shanghai, Beijing, Hong Kong, and Singapore. This service is available for most items of clothing, such as business suits, blazers, overcoats, trousers, shirts or evening wear.
6. Oxxford Clothes
These expert tailors are based in Chicago, Illinois and were founded in 1916 by Louis and Jacob Weinberg. Oxxford Clothes have dressed such luminaries as Joe DiMaggio, Gary Cooper and Clark Gable. Each Oxxford suit is cut by hand, with stripes and plaids being matched at the seams, whether they are visible or not. This attention to detail extends to hand-stitched collars, lapels and buttonholes. There are 165 steps to make an Oxxford jacket, with 33 of these involving pressing. In fact, the final pressing takes more than an hour. Oxxford use natural fabrics selected from the finest mills in Italy, Spain and the UK. The bespoke experience starts with a fitting with your tailor or at Oxxford’s Chicago showroom and involves three fittings where detailed measurements are taken and any revisions are made.
7. Huntsman & Sons
Henry Huntsman originally set up shop on Dover Street in London in 1849. Hunstman received the Royal Warrant from Queen Victoria in 1888. Famous clients past and present of Huntsman & Sons include Winston Churchill, Gregory Peck, Katherine Hepburn, Bing Crosby, Clark Gable, Paul Newman, Damien Lewis and Brad Pitt. The white tie outfit worn by character Lord Grantham in Downton Abbey is another Huntsman creation. However, the brand’s most famous iteration could well be in the Kingsman movies, inspired by Huntsman and filmed at the Savile Row store.
Huntsman offer several bespoke services: Bespoke 1849 which includes access to Huntsman House and invitations to special events, the Huntsman Bespoke service which offers accelerated delivery, Bespoke Ladieswear and Teleporting Bespoke Services.
8. Michael Andrews Bespoke
Founded in 2006, Michael Andrews Bespoke make exquisitely crafted menswear and womenswear at their New York studio. Originally an attorney, Michael understands the need to look your best and has a diverse clientele of entrepreneurs, athletes, actors and musicians. They have a wide range of bespoke clothing including custom pajamas, bespoke jeans and chinos, custom swim shorts and knitwear and bespoke trucker jackets. The latter are available in suede, Japanese denim, English tweed and cashmere corduroy.
9. Henry Poole & Co
The story of Henry Poole & Co goes all the way back to 1806, when Henry’s father James stitched military tunics for the Napoleonic wars with the help of his wife Mary. Henry inherited the business in 1846 and quickly became popular with celebrities and royalty. He received a royal warrant from Napoleon III in 1858 and another from Queen Victoria in 1869. Victoria’s son King Edward VII was another fan of the renowned tailor. Customer ledgers have been preserved from 1846. They continue to make bespoke shirts and suits as well as court and ceremonial outfits from their historic premises at 15 Savile Row. Customers can choose from over 6,000 luxurious fabrics.
10. Duncan Quinn
A British expat in the United States, Duncan Quinn opened his eponymous store in NoLita, New York in 2003. In his words “our suits, bespoke or otherwise, are a little like the irreverent sons of a well-heeled aristocrat.” Duncan Quinn suits have slim cut waists, a made to order Smoking Skull© logo lining and a heavily roped shoulder for a smart look.
The bespoke experience here is about more than just buying a suit. Clients can expect invitations to some unique events such as dinners in secret locations or parties onboard classic racing schooners.
This luxurious Italian brand has been making high-quality custom suits since 1910. They are known for their attention to detail and use of luxurious fabrics. They offer made-to-measure and bespoke suits for men, as well as shirts, pants, and other menswear items. Ermenegildo Zegna Bespoke Atelier is by invitation only, and begins with a conversation with Master Tailor Angelo Pecora. As Zegna also produce fabrics and fibres, the sky is the limit with the styles you can opt for.
12. Cesare Attolini
Cesare Attolini have many years experience of making beautiful suits of the highest quality. This Italian tailor was established by Vincenzo Attolini, Cesare’s father, in Naples in 1930. One of the best tailors in the world, it quickly became popular with clients such as King Vittorio Emanuele III and the Duke of Windsor. Today, Cesare Attolini has boutiques in Milan, New York, Miami and Moscow.
13. Cad & The Dandy
If you’re looking for bespoke yet affordable suits, Cad & The Dandy is a good option. This Savile Row tailor was founded by James Sleater and Ian Meiers in 2008. Today, they have showrooms in London, New York and Stockholm and a client base ranging from royalty to stars of the screen. Cad & The Dandy are known for their well fitted suits with slim shoulder padding.
David Reeves is a British tailor who lives in New York. He has been making bespoke suits, coats and jackets for over 22 years. Each suit is hand-cut and bench-made, with more than 3000 hand stitches. A Reeves suit takes at least 40 hours of skilled labor to produce, and each client’s paper patterns are then stored for them. David Reeves Bespoke has been worn by Tom Hardy, Nick Kroll and Bryan Cranston.
15. Hackett London
A relative newcomer to Savile Row and the world of bespoke clothing, Hackett have quickly made their mark with a stylish showroom and warm customer welcome. The house style is British, with a hint of Mediterranean flair. Head cutter Juan Carlos Benito comes from a family of tailors and his grandfather previously worked for Kilgour. The Hackett Bespoke service allows the client as many fittings as they feel are necessary.
It is currently available in London at No14 Savile Row, Jermyn Street, Sloane Street, Regent Street, Westfield, King Street, Old Broad Street, Canary Wharf and One New Change and at George Street in Edinburgh.
16. The Armoury
There are three custom clothing options at The Armoury, an artisanal clothier based in New York City. These are made to order, made to measure and bespoke. They act as a one-stop shop for bespoke clothing, shoes and eyewear, working with artisans such as Liverano & Liverano, Nackymade, Pommella Napoli and Koji Suzuki. These services require a high degree of involvement between the customer and the tailor, so they can only be accomplished with a bespoke artisan during a trunk show.
Sometimes referred to as the world’s finest tailor, Kilgour has been making high quality bespoke clothing since 1880. Although they are no longer based on Savile Row, they continue to produce comfortable, functional and discreet garments.
Think Cary Grant in North by Northwest, wearing a grey flannel Kilgour, French and Stanbury (as the brand was known then), or Fred Astaire in Top Hat. Other fans of Kilgour, past and present, include Frank Sinatra, Jude Law and Daniel Craig. Kilgour’s bespoke suits are designed to travel well and last for a long time. They feature a high arm hole and sharp shoulder line. The process takes around 12 weeks in all. On average, it takes 10 craftspeople and 100 man hours to make a bespoke Kilgour suit.
18. Tailors Mark
Offering bespoke suits for affordable prices, this Melbourne based company creates personalized garment patterns from 3D prints. Each one is tailored entirely to your body and allows extensive customization, including buttons, lapels, embroidered initials and other details. Tailors Mark source their Australian wool from Australia and Spain, and mill them in Europe. Their hand-finished suits and jackets include natural felt collars, premium Helsa shoulder pads and half canvassed construction for breathability in warm climates.
In Conclusion: Bespoke Tailors
These are just a few of the many amazing shops that offer bespoke tailoring services. So whatever your needs when choosing a new suit may be, there’s sure to be a true bespoke tailor out there who can help you achieve a high class look.
The important thing is to find a specialist that fits your style and personality, for the best tailoring experience. Whether you’re looking for a bespoke wedding suit, new jacket or overcoat for your capsule wardrobe, get out there and start shopping!
According to a famous quote, “the suit maketh the man” and one thing’s for sure, you’ll feel like a million dollars in one of these bespoke designer suits.
Courtesy LuxuryColumnist.com Article available here.