Duration & Time of Year
After some research, we decided to go in April for two primary reasons: weather and crowds. We had daily temperatures between 16C and 24C, which were perfect for exploring. If you want to go to the beach and swim, maybe wait till the second half of the month. During our two-week stay, about 80% of the days were sunny, with the only rain coming overnight. As for crowds, we didn’t come across anywhere that felt overcrowded, even on weekends.
Driving Tips
In no specific order, here are some tips based on my experience driving across Sicily:
- When selecting your hire car, make sure to get the full insurance that removes liability for all damage. You can be the most experienced and careful driver; however, many others on the road are not. On multiple occasions, people tried to sneak through gaps and clipped my mirrors, resulting in scratches.
- When selecting the car type, I would go for the smallest possible car. Many roads can be extremely narrow. We had a small hatchback (MG), and I wouldn’t want to have something bigger, especially in cities and mountain roads.
- Google Maps is more accurate and reliable than Apple Maps. A few times, Apple Maps took us down dead-end roads, tried to route us the wrong way down a one-way street, and even suggested a road that physically didn’t exist. We also found discrepancies in the locations of hotels and restaurants on Apple Maps. With Google, we didn’t have any issues.
- The roads can be uneven and full of potholes, especially in the countryside.
- Some motorways have tolls, so always have some coins in the car.
- If you’re coming from the UK, Germany, or any other country which has a higher standard of driving, you might be shocked by some of the driving style here. While I didn’t have issues, I lost count of how many times people overtook on blind bends, tailgated, cut you up, or tried to bully you to drive faster than the speed limit.
- While you can park on the street, I always sought out off-street parking to avoid fines and damage to the car. Most allowed you to pay by card; however, always have plenty of coins just in case.
- In most cases, the duration Google Maps suggested to complete a drive was about 30-45 minutes faster than reality. The drive always took longer than the ETA.
- Almost every city has a ZTL zone where you’re not allowed to drive through. In most cases, the ZTL zone is clearly marked and is the very central part of the old town. Some people can still drive there, but it’s most likely locals. ZTL zones are camera-patrolled, so if you drive into it, expect a fine. Most large car parks are located outside of the ZTL zones.
Palermo
The trip starts in Palermo, the biggest and busiest city in Sicily. The reason it’s the first stop is because of easy flight access, and it’s better to do the most intense location first. In total, I allocated two full days here, and in my experience, I found it enough. We stayed just outside the centre; however, if I were to return, I’d stay closer to the market.
West Sicily
San Vito Lo Capo
This is a great seaside town not far from Scorpello. It offers an amazing beach, lovely town, and a harbour. I suggest walking up to the lighthouse and all along the beach to see everything. We spent about 2-3 hours here.
Marsala
This is a slightly larger town located on the coast. While the town is bigger, the most interesting part is pretty small. We spent about an hour here walking around. While we didn’t regret coming, if we were on a tight schedule, we would have removed it from the list.
Trapani
Get ready for some copy and paste, because the same applies here. This is a slightly larger town located on the coast. While the town is bigger, the most interesting part is pretty small. We spent about an hour here walking around. While we didn’t regret coming, if we were on a tight schedule, we would have removed it from the list.
Erice
This was one of the biggest surprises of the trip and a place we would gladly return to. Located above the clouds, the small village of Erica offers a very unique visiting experience compared to the seaside towns. The cobblestoned streets will take you all round the village, and I suggest taking any street you see and following it to the end to see what you will find. We spent at least an hour doing this and getting lost. After that, head to Torri del Balio castle. From there, you can have amazing views above the clouds. In total, we spent two hours in Erice, but that was due to time constraints. If we could, we’d drop Marsala or Trapani and spend another two to three hours in Erice.
East Sicily
Etna
Etna has its own weather system and you will need to be very flexible should you wish to go to the top. If you wake up and the weather is clear, you need to drop all your other plans and go to Etna. From the hotel, it was a relaxing 45-minute drive up some great mountain roads. You want to set the navigation to the Etna cable car, even if you want to hike up. The cable car area is a huge touristic complex with ample parking, restaurants, gift shops, tours, and more. While you can’t go all the way to the top because it’s an active volcano, you can visit one of the craters not far from the summit. If you want to hike, be prepared for a good 2-3 hour ascend on a pretty loose surface. Also, make sure to have a mask or scarf to cover your nose from the dust. Another option is to take the cable car to the top and then jump on a bus that will take you closer to the crater. From there, you will have a guide that will take you up along the ridge of the crater and explain the history. Whichever method you take to get up the mountain, I would assign an entire day for this, so you’re not rushing.
Taormina & Castelmola
If you happen to have another clear day, you must prioritise Taormina. This is a seaside town located 45 minutes from Etna and has enough to keep you busy all day. When you arrive, I suggest taking the cable car down to the beach and, if you can, popping into Isola Bella. If it’s hot, this is a great place to take a dip. Take the cable car back up and head to Parco di Lady Florence. This is a small park that has great views of Etna and the coastline. After that, head into the old town and walk around exploring all the little streets. Also, pop to Piazza Aprille for a great view of Etna.
Syracuse
Syracuse is a great town; however, for most people, it’s a place they will walk through to get to Isola di Ortigia. When you get to the island, I suggest starting on one side and following the coast all the way up to the top. There you can explore the castle before walking back down on the other side. Once done, zig-zag through the middle to be sure you’ve seen everything. The Jewish quarter has some great narrow streets, and the entire island is full of churches, piazzas, and amazing architecture to explore. In total, we spent 4-5 hours here.
Catania
The final stop was Catania. While the plan had two days reserved for this city, we managed to get everything done in one day, with the second day being reserved for resting. Unlike Palermo, Catania is smaller and more relaxed, making it the perfect place to end this trip.
